Bougatsa from Thessaloniki (Semolina Custard Phyllo Pie with Cinnamon)

La storia di questo piatto

Bougatsa is a northern Greek breakfast, rooted in Thessaloniki, Serres and Veria, with echoes of Byzantine kitchens and Asia Minor, and its custard-filled version spread widely after the 1922 population exchange. This is a home interpretation of that morning ritual, carrying the spirit of the city rather than claiming a centuries-old recipe.

Ingredienti

• 500 ml Whole milk
• 60 g Fine semolina
• 70 g Granulated sugar
• 1/2 piece Vanilla pod
• 1 piece Eggs
• 100 g Butter
• 8 piece Phyllo dough
• 1 pinch Fine salt
• 2 tablespoon Icing sugar
• 1 teaspoon Ground cinnamon

Preparazione

1. Split the vanilla pod lengthwise with the tip of a small knife, scrape out the seeds and place them in the milk together with the pod, in a heavy-bottomed saucepan with a pinch of salt. Heat over medium heat until small bubbles appear along the edges and a warm vanilla aroma rises: the milk should almost boil, but not rise, so don't walk away. Turn off the heat, cover and let infuse for 5 minutes, then remove the pod. Meanwhile, in a separate small pan, melt 80 g of butter over very low heat: it will be used to brush the pan and sheets (about 10 g for the pan, 30 g for the 4 base sheets, 40 g for the 4 top sheets and the surface). Keep the remaining 20 g of butter in the fridge until step 2, then add it in pieces to the custard.
2. Return the milk pan to medium-low heat, add the sugar and then the semolina in a fine steady rain, whisking constantly with a whisk or wooden spoon: the slow rain is the secret to avoiding lumps. Never stop stirring and scrape the bottom well, until the custard thickens and pulls away from the sides, like a thick pudding that leaves a trail from the spoon. This will take about 8-10 minutes. Off the heat, stir in the 20 g of cold butter in pieces until melted: it makes the custard glossy and smooth.
3. Let the custard cool for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally so a skin doesn't form on the surface. It should be lukewarm to the touch, not hot, otherwise the egg will scramble. Beat the whole egg with a fork and incorporate it into the custard, stirring energetically until the mixture is smooth and glossy. Taste it: it should be gently sweet, vanilla-scented and silky. If it tastes a bit flat, an extra pinch of salt will wake it up.
4. Preheat the oven to 180°C static. Brush a square baking dish about 22 cm wide with about 10 g of the melted butter. Take out the phyllo dough and immediately cover it with a well-wrung damp cloth: exposed to dry air, it crumbles within minutes. Lay one sheet at a time in the dish, brushing it with melted butter over the entire surface, edges included (about 30 g of butter in total for the 4 sheets), letting it overhang the dish. Layer 4 sheets this way, rotating each one slightly to cover the corners well: each thin layer of butter between the sheets is what will give you the layered crispness.
5. Pour the semolina custard into the centre of the phyllo base and level it with the back of a spoon, covering the bottom evenly. Fold the overhanging edges over the custard, then cover with 4 more sheets, again one at a time and brushed with melted butter, tucking the edges well under the pie, as you would tuck in a blanket. Brush the surface generously with all the remaining melted butter (about 40 g in total between the top sheets and the surface) and, with a very sharp knife, score the squares down to just touching the custard: cutting before baking prevents the phyllo from cracking afterwards.
6. Bake at 180°C on the middle rack for 30-35 minutes. It is ready when the surface is an even, deep golden amber, the edges have lifted and are crisp, and if you bring your ear close you hear a faint crackling of butter. If it colours too quickly, cover with aluminium foil for the last 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for 10 minutes: the custard settles and the phyllo stays crisp.
7. Cut along the scored lines, going over the knife all the way through, and serve the squares while still warm on plates. Sift the icing sugar mixed with the cinnamon over the top, with a light hand, so that everything is covered like a fragrant snowfall. Before serving, taste a corner: if the custard seems too sweet, a grating of lemon zest will brighten it; otherwise it is perfect as it is. Eat right away, while the phyllo still crackles under the teeth.