Wild Boar Stew alla Maremmana (Maremma-Style Wild Boar Stew)

La storia di questo piatto

In the Maremma of Grosseto, the wild boar stew is a dish of the woods and the hunt, made with Morellino di Scansano and the juniper, bay and rosemary of the underbrush. No exact date is recorded, so it comes to the table as a tradition of the land rather than a tale from a book.

Ingredienti

• 1.2 kg Wild boar meat cut into roughly 4-5 cm pieces
• 750 ml Full-bodied red wine (Morellino di Scansano), 500 ml for marinating and 250 ml for deglazing
• 8 pcs Juniper berries
• 2 leaves Bay leaves
• 2 sprigs Fresh rosemary
• 2 large pc Onion
• 2 large pc Carrot
• 4 stalks Celery
• 400 g Tomato passata
• 1 tablespoon Tomato paste
• 5 tablespoons Extra virgin olive oil
• 2 cloves Garlic
• 10 g Fine salt
• 1 to taste Freshly ground black pepper (about half a teaspoon)
• 1 tablespoon Red wine vinegar (for the marinade)
• 1 tablespoon Fresh parsley, finely chopped

Preparazione

1. Cut the wild boar meat into pieces of roughly 4-5 cm and place them in a narrow, deep bowl so the wine covers them as much as possible. Add 500 ml of red wine (reserve the remaining 250 ml for deglazing), the tablespoon of red wine vinegar, the juniper berries lightly crushed with the back of a spoon, the bay leaves and a sprig of rosemary. Also add half an onion, half the carrot and one celery stalk cut into large pieces: they will flavor the marinade. If any pieces of meat rise above the wine, turn them occasionally. Cover and refrigerate for at least 12 hours, because this long rest, helped by the acidity of the vinegar, is exactly what softens the strong flavor of the game.
2. Drain the boar over another bowl, since the marinade liquid will be needed later; discard the vegetables and herbs from the marinade. Strain the marinade through a sieve and bring it to a boil in a small saucepan for 4-5 minutes, then keep it warm: this makes it safe and less sharp. Pat the meat pieces dry one by one with a clean cloth, without skimping: if they stay wet, they will boil instead of browning in the pan and you will lose the flavor of the crust. Then finely chop the remaining onion and carrot and the remaining 3 celery stalks into very small pieces, which will melt into the sauce.
3. Heat the oil in a large casserole over medium-high heat until it just shimmers and a piece of dry meat placed in the bottom sizzles immediately. Add the meat a few pieces at a time, without crowding the pot, and leave it undisturbed: do not turn it until it releases on its own. Look for a vigorous sizzle and a dark brown crust on each side; this is where the depth of the sauce is born. Remove the pieces as they brown and set them aside.
4. In the same pot, without washing anything, lower the heat to medium and add the onion, carrot, celery and the crushed garlic. Stir and, with a wooden spoon, scrape up the dark residues stuck to the bottom: they are concentrated flavor and should not be wasted. After 8-10 minutes the vegetables should be golden and fragrant, never burnt; if they take on too much color, lower the heat a little. If the garlic darkens too much, remove it.
5. Return the wild boar to the pot, season with half of the planned salt and deglaze with the remaining 250 ml of red wine, stirring and lifting the flavors from the bottom. Let it evaporate over high heat for 2-3 minutes, until the sharp smell of alcohol disappears and you smell only cooked wine. Then add the passata, the tomato paste and the remaining sprig of rosemary, then pour in the strained and boiled marinade (about a ladle) and, if needed, hot water until the meat is covered about two-thirds. Keep the rest of the marinade aside: it will only be needed if the sauce dries out too much.
6. Bring it gently to a boil, then lower the flame to the minimum and cover with the lid slightly ajar. The sauce should form just a few lazy bubbles, never a vigorous boil, and should be stirred occasionally so it does not stick. Cook for 2.5 to 3 hours, until the meat falls apart at the pressure of a fork and the sauce is glossy and thick. If it dries out too early, add a ladle of hot strained boiled marinade or hot water, never cold, which would stop the cooking.
7. When the meat is tender, adjust the salt and add the freshly ground black pepper just before serving. Always taste calmly and correct if needed before turning off the heat: the acidity from the vinegar has already been provided by the marinade, so the sauce needs no further adjustments.
8. Turn off the heat, cover and let the wild boar rest for 10 minutes: the flavors settle and the sauce thickens a little more. Serve piping hot, sprinkling each plate with freshly chopped parsley, which adds a touch of freshness and aroma to a dark, intense dish.