Fabada Asturiana

La storia di questo piatto

Fabada Asturiana belongs to the Principality of Asturias, in Spain's green north, where the beans have grown since at least the 16th century, though the dish itself, born somewhere between the 19th and 20th centuries, keeps its exact origin to itself. It is a pot of buttery fabes, chorizo, morcilla, lacón and tocino, held together by smoked paprika and a slow, unhurried Asturian patience.

Ingredienti

• 400 g Dried Asturian beans (Faba Asturiana PGI)
• 1.5 l Cold water for soaking the beans
• 300 g Lacón (salted pork shoulder) or ham bone, already desalted
• 150 g Pancetta (tocino) in one piece
• 2 pezzo Asturian chorizo for cooking
• 2 pezzo Asturian morcilla (blood sausage)
• 1 pezzo White onion
• 3 spicchio Garlic cloves
• 3 cucchiaio Extra virgin olive oil
• 2 cucchiaino Smoked sweet paprika (pimentón de la Vera)
• 1 pizzico Saffron threads
• 1 pezzo Bay leaf
• 1.4 l Cold water for cooking (enough to cover the beans by two fingers)
• 6 g Fine salt
• 1 pizzico Freshly ground black pepper

Preparazione

1. The evening before, place the beans in a large bowl and cover them with 1.5 litres of cold water: leave them loose, as they will double in volume. If the lacón is salted, soak it separately in cold water overnight, changing the water once, otherwise the fabada will be too salty. In the morning drain the beans: they should be plump and smooth, without wrinkled skins, a sign they have absorbed what they needed.
2. In a tall, heavy pot heat the 3 tablespoons of oil over medium-low heat, then add the pancetta cut into large cubes and the lacón. Let them brown for 8-10 minutes, turning them only occasionally: the pancetta releases its fat and the edges turn golden, while the aroma of toasted pork fills the kitchen. A brown crust forms on the bottom: that is flavour, do not touch it yet. Add the two whole chorizos and let them colour for a couple of minutes, until the oil turns orange: the chorizo cooks in the pot from start to finish, while the two morcillas stay aside and will only go in for the last 25 minutes of cooking (step 6).
3. Add the finely chopped onion and the lightly crushed garlic in their skins to the pot. Lower the heat to minimum and cook for 12-15 minutes, stirring gently, until the onion is translucent, soft and sweet, with no dark colouring. Meanwhile scrape the bottom with the wooden spoon: the brown traces dissolve into the onion and become the deep base of the dish. Then remove the pot from the heat, add the 2 teaspoons of paprika and stir for just 10 seconds, as it burns quickly and turns bitter; immediately afterwards pour in the drained beans.
4. Cover with about 1.4 litres of cold water, up to two fingers above the beans, and add the bay leaf. Bring slowly to a faint simmer: a few bubbles rising now and then, never a lively boil, which would break the bean skins. In the first 10 minutes skim the surface with a slotted spoon until the liquid is clear. If it boils too hard, add a ladle of cold water and the boil will stop. Season with 2 g of salt now and place the lid slightly askew so the steam escapes slowly.
5. Cook over very low heat for about an hour and a half, shaking the pot by its handles every 20 minutes instead of stirring: this way the beans do not break. If needed, add a splash of cold water to keep them always covered. Halfway through cooking, place the pinch of saffron threads in a spoonful of warm water and let them infuse for 10 minutes, until the water turns an intense yellow, then pour it into the pot together with another 2 g of salt.
6. Drop the two morcillas into the pot only in the last 25 minutes, while the chorizo has been cooking from the start: if the morcilla cooks for too long it crumbles and clouds the whole broth. Let it cook whole, without piercing it, at a gentle simmer. At the end of cooking press a bean between your fingers: it should yield like a cream, buttery inside and intact outside. The broth should coat the spoon, thick and amber-coloured. If it is still too runny, simmer uncovered for 10 minutes; if too thick, add a ladle of warm water.
7. Turn off the heat and let it rest for 15 minutes with the lid on: the beans absorb the broth and the fabada thickens on its own. Remove the bay leaf and any bones, then cut the chorizo, morcilla, pancetta and lacón into thick slices. Always taste before serving: add the last 2 g of salt only if needed (the total is 6 g), a grind of pepper and, to brighten the flavours, a drizzle of good raw olive oil. Serve piping hot in deep bowls, placing a little of each meat in every bowl.