Ossobuco alla Milanese

La storia di questo piatto

Ossobuco alla Milanese is Lombardy at its most composed: veal shank braised in white wine, butter and a quiet sofrito of onion, carrot and celery, the kind of elegance Milan wears without ever raising its voice. It is a dish of the city's tables, where tenderness counts for more than show.

Ingredienti

• 4 pieces (about 350g each) Veal shanks
• 100 g Type 00 flour
• 4 tablespoons Extra virgin olive oil
• 40 g Butter
• 1 medium Onion
• 1 medium Carrot
• 1 stalk Celery
• 250 ml Dry white wine
• 500 ml Meat broth
• 200 g Peeled plum tomatoes
• 1 fruit Lemon
• 30 g Fresh parsley
• 1 clove Garlic
• q.b. to taste Salt
• q.b. to taste Black pepper

Preparazione

1. Prepare the vegetables: dice the onion, carrot and celery into very small pieces (about 5 mm) and set aside. Prepare the shanks: using kitchen scissors or a small knife, score the outer membrane in 2-3 spots along the edge so the meat doesn't curl during cooking. Pat the shanks dry with kitchen paper, then season with salt and pepper on both sides. Dredge each shank in the flour and shake off the excess by gently patting with your hands.
2. In a wide, heavy-bottomed casserole, heat the oil with 20 g of butter over medium-high heat until the butter stops foaming. Arrange the shanks side by side without touching. Let them sear for 4-5 minutes until a golden crust forms on the bottom. Turn them carefully with tongs and brown the other side for another 4-5 minutes, until a deep golden-brown color. Remove them from the casserole and set aside on a plate.
3. In the same pan, lower the heat to medium and add the remaining butter (20 g). Add the onion, carrot and celery and cook for 8-10 minutes, stirring often with a wooden spoon, until they are soft and translucent, just golden but not dark: if they brown too much they become bitter. Return the shanks to the casserole, in a single layer, on top of the vegetables.
4. Pour in the white wine: you will hear it sizzle as it evaporates. Scrape the bottom with the wooden spoon to lift the caramelized bits stuck to the pan, which add a great deal of flavor. Let it reduce for 3-4 minutes, until the bottom is just moistened and the sharp smell of alcohol becomes softer and sweeter.
5. Add the broth and the peeled tomatoes, crushing them with the spoon. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to the minimum and cover, leaving a small gap for steam to escape.
6. Cook over very low heat for 1h30-2h in total. Every 30 minutes, lift the lid, gently turn the shanks and check the braising liquid: it should only simmer, with a few slow bubbles. The dish is ready when the meat pulls easily away from the bone when pierced with a fork and the braising liquid has become darker and thicker, no longer pale as at the start.
7. In the last 15 minutes of cooking, prepare the gremolada: wash the lemon and very finely peel only the yellow part of the zest, avoiding the white pith underneath, which is bitter. Cut the garlic clove in half, remove the green germ from the center and mince it very finely. Finely chop the parsley and the lemon zest. Mix everything in a bowl: you will smell a fresh, bright aroma that contrasts with the rich dish.
8. At the end of cooking, remove the lid. If the braising liquid is still too thin, let it reduce uncovered for a few minutes, until it coats the spoon. Taste and adjust salt and pepper. Arrange the shanks on plates, spoon the braising liquid over them and sprinkle generously with the gremolada.
9. Serve the ossobuco alongside a saffron risotto, the traditional accompaniment to be prepared separately (not included in this recipe). The braising liquid goes over the meat: serve any leftover in a sauceboat, it should not be thrown away.