Hünkâr Beğendi

La storia di questo piatto

Hünkâr Beğendi — 'the Sultan was pleased' — carries within it the memory of Ottoman palace kitchens, where Bosphorus winds tangled with the smoke of a thousand feasts and an empire tasted itself in every bite. It is Istanbul and Anatolia at once: the opulence of a throne room dissolving into the raw, volcanic earth of the Aegean hinterland.

Ingredienti

• 800 g Lamb shoulder
• 2 pieces Large eggplants
• 60 g Butter
• 30 g All-purpose flour
• 400 ml Whole milk
• 150 g Grated Kashkaval cheese
• 1 piece Medium onion
• 200 g Canned peeled tomatoes
• 500 ml Water or lamb stock
• q.b. Salt and black pepper
• 1 teaspoon Sweet paprika
• 1 pinch Nutmeg
• 3 tablespoons Olive oil

Preparazione

1. Pierce the eggplants with a long-handled fork and hold them directly over the stovetop flame, turning them occasionally, until the skin turns black and becomes covered with blisters and the flesh inside feels soft when you touch it. Don't be alarmed if it looks burnt—it's precisely that charred skin that imparts the smoky aroma that makes all the difference. As soon as they're ready, place them in a paper or plastic bag for 10 minutes: the steam that forms inside will help the skin separate from the flesh on its own.
2. Open the bag and remove the blackened skin with your hands or a small knife, without rinsing the eggplant under water or you'll wash away the smoky flavor. Place the flesh in a colander and press it lightly with the back of a spoon, so it releases the bitter water that would otherwise dilute everything. Set it aside—you'll need it later for the purée.
3. Cut the lamb into cubes about the size of a large walnut, roughly 3-4 centimeters, and sear them in hot oil along with finely minced onion. Stir frequently and let a beautiful golden crust form on every side, but don't overcrowd the pot or the meat will steam instead of sear. When it smells like roasted meat and is browned all over, add the paprika and stir briefly to toast it and release all its aromatic qualities.
4. Pour the tomatoes and broth into the pot, using your spoon to scrape up all the golden flavors clinging to the bottom—that's where the deepest taste hides. Cover and let it simmer gently over low heat for 45 to 50 minutes, stirring from time to time. You'll know it's done when the meat is so tender it practically falls apart at the touch of a fork and the sauce has reduced to become thick and glossy: taste it and adjust the salt and pepper as needed.
5. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over gentle heat, then add all the flour at once and whisk for 2 minutes: it should become a smooth, lightly golden paste without any lumps and without browning too much. Pour the warm milk in gradually, always whisking, so you prevent small lumps from forming. Continue until you have a smooth cream that coats the back of the spoon.
6. Add the smoky eggplant purée to the hot béchamel, along with the grated cheese and a fresh grating of nutmeg, whose warm aroma marvelously binds together with the eggplant's smokiness. Stir patiently until the mixture becomes velvety dense, smooth and creamy, the kind that stays on the spoon without running off. Taste it and adjust the salt if needed.
7. Pour the eggplant purée into the center of each plate and, with the back of your spoon, create a small well like a nest. Fill the center with the steaming hot lamb stew, allowing the sauce to flow toward the edges. Finish with a sprinkle of freshly grated cheese and a pinch of paprika to add color and one final aromatic touch: bring to the table immediately, because when it's hot it's a completely different experience.