Hünkâr Beğendi (Turkish Lamb Stew with Smoked Eggplant Purée)

La storia di questo piatto

Hünkâr Beğendi, "the sultan liked it", is a dish of the Turkish table whose very name carries the memory of Ottoman palace kitchens. Here lamb stewed in tomato and onion rests on a smoky aubergine cream, humble ingredients dressed like royalty.

Ingredienti

• 800 g Lamb shoulder
• 3 pieces Large eggplants
• 60 g Butter
• 30 g All-purpose flour
• 350 ml Whole milk
• 150 g Grated kaşar (or kashkaval) cheese
• 1 pieces Medium onion
• 200 g Peeled canned tomatoes
• 500 ml Water or lamb broth
• 1 teaspoon Salt
• 2 pinch Ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon Sweet paprika (1 teaspoon for the stew + 1 pinch for finishing)
• 1 pinch Nutmeg
• 3 tablespoons Olive oil

Preparazione

1. Skewer the eggplants on a long fork and hold them directly over the stove flame, turning them occasionally, for 15-20 minutes, until the skin turns black and blistered and the flesh feels soft to the touch. Don't worry if they look burnt: it is exactly this charred skin that gives the smoky aroma that makes the difference. As soon as they are ready, seal them in a paper or plastic bag for 10 minutes: the steam that forms inside will help the skin come away on its own.
2. Open the bag and remove the blackened skin with your hands or a small knife, without rinsing the eggplant under water, or you will wash away the smoky flavor. Place the flesh in a colander and gently press it with the back of a spoon so it releases the bitter liquid that would otherwise water down the dish. Then chop it very finely with a knife or pulse it in a food processor until you have an almost smooth purée. Set it aside, you will need it later.
3. Cut the lamb into cubes about the size of a large walnut, 3-4 cm, and season with half the salt. Brown them in the 3 tablespoons of very hot oil together with the finely chopped onion. Stir often and let a nice golden crust form on each side, without overcrowding the pan (if needed, work in two batches) or the meat will boil instead of browning. When it smells of roast and is evenly coloured, add 1 teaspoon of paprika and stir briefly to toast it and release all its aroma.
4. Crush the canned tomatoes with a fork and add them to the pan together with the broth (if you have no broth, use warm water or make a quick broth with lamb bones), scraping up with the spoon all the golden bits stuck to the bottom: this is where the best flavor hides. Cover and let it simmer gently over low heat for 45-50 minutes, stirring from time to time. It is ready when the meat almost falls apart at the touch of a fork and the sauce has reduced to a thick, glossy consistency: taste and adjust salt and pepper.
5. Warm the milk in a separate small saucepan without letting it boil. In another small saucepan, melt the butter over low heat, then add all the flour at once and whisk for 2 minutes: it should become a smooth, lightly golden roux, without lumps and without letting it darken too much. Pour in the warm milk little by little, always whisking, so that no lumps form. Continue cooking for 5-6 minutes until you obtain a smooth cream that coats the spoon.
6. Add the smoked eggplant purée to the hot béchamel, along with 120 g of grated kaşar cheese (set aside the remaining 30 g for finishing) and a grating of fresh nutmeg, whose warm fragrance blends wonderfully with the smokiness of the eggplant. Stir patiently over low heat for 5 minutes, until the mixture becomes a thick, smooth, creamy velouté that stays on the spoon without running. Taste and, if needed, adjust the salt.
7. Spoon the eggplant purée into the centre of each plate and, with the back of the spoon, shape a small well like a nest. Fill the centre with the very hot lamb stew, letting the sauce spill over the edges. Finish with a sprinkling of the remaining 30 g of grated cheese and a pinch of paprika for colour and a final touch of aroma. Serve with Turkish bread (pide) on the side to mop up the sauce: bring it to the table right away, it is a completely different dish when hot.