Moussaka

La storia di questo piatto

Moussaka è la Grecia stratificata nella sua stessa anima: terra rossa, sole bianco, mare lontano che sussurra tra le pietre di un villaggio senza nome. Ogni generazione l'ha portata in tavola come si porta una preghiera, perché questo piatto non si mangia, si eredita.

Ingredienti

• 800 g Eggplants
• 500 g Ground lamb
• 1 medium Onion
• 3 cloves Garlic
• 400 ml Tomato passata
• 100 ml Dry red wine
• 1 teaspoon Cinnamon
• 0.5 teaspoon Nutmeg
• 150 ml Extra virgin olive oil
• 60 g Butter
• 50 g Flour
• 500 ml Whole milk
• 100 g Grated Parmesan cheese
• 2 medium Eggs
• q.b. Salt
• q.b. Black pepper

Preparazione

1. Slice the eggplants into thick slices, about half a centimeter each (roughly the thickness of a coin). Place them in a colander and sprinkle generously with salt on all sides: the salt will draw out all the excess water that makes them soggy and bitter. Let them rest in a cool place. After a short while you'll see dark water droplets dripping from the bottom of the colander: this is a sign that the process is working. When the droplets slow down and barely fall anymore, you're finished.
2. Pat each eggplant slice thoroughly dry with paper towels on both sides: there must be no moisture remaining, otherwise they won't fry properly. Pour a generous amount of oil into a large pan and heat over medium-high heat. When the oil is ready, its surface will begin to ripple slightly: to test it, flick a drop of water into it—it should sizzle immediately with a sharp, crisp sound and disappear instantly. Fry the eggplants in small batches (don't crowd the pan with too many pieces at once or they'll steam instead of fry and stay soft): submerge the pieces in the hot oil and let them cook about 3 to 4 minutes per side until the surface turns golden and the center remains soft to the touch. Drain them immediately on clean paper towels, which will absorb the excess oil.
3. Pour 3 tablespoons of oil into a medium pan and turn the heat to medium temperature. Finely mince the onion and garlic, cutting them into very small pieces, and add them to the hot oil: you'll immediately smell a sweet and appetizing aroma. Stir for about a minute until they become translucent (you can almost see through them) and soft to the touch. Add the ground lamb and break it apart well with a wooden spoon as it cooks, stirring continuously with decisive movements: in the first minute it will be gray, then it will gradually turn browner and browner. Continue cooking and stirring for 8 to 10 minutes until all the meat is deep brown and you see no more gray patches. When the meat is ready you'll smell a deep and inviting aroma that fills the entire kitchen.
4. Pour the red wine into the pan: you'll hear it sizzle and the smell of alcohol will rise up strongly. Stir well and scrape the bottom of the pan with your wooden spoon to collect all the dark brown deposits stuck to the sides: these caramelized flavors will give more depth to the ragù. Wait for the wine to evaporate almost completely (the pan will seem almost dry), then add the tomato passata. Add a pinch of cinnamon and a very tiny pinch of nutmeg (these spices are very potent, so use barely any or they'll overpower everything). Lower the heat to its lowest setting: the ragù should barely move with tiny bubbles slowly rising from the bottom. Stir occasionally to prevent it from sticking to the bottom. When the ragù has taken on a darker, deeper color, taste it and adjust with salt and pepper if needed.
5. Melt the butter in a medium pot over medium heat. Once it's completely liquid and hot, add the flour that you've passed through a sieve and stir immediately with a wooden spoon for 2 minutes: it should become a smooth, dense paste, slightly darker than the butter but not deep brown (if it turns brown it means you've overheated it). Pour in the warm milk a little at a time (about 100 milliliters at a time), stirring with energy and consistency using the spoon: this is the important part, don't stop stirring or lumps will form. Between each milk addition, wait for the previous milk to be fully incorporated and the sauce to be smooth before adding more.
6. Continue stirring over medium-low heat until the sauce becomes dense and smooth, like a cream that coats the spoon well (if you run the spoon across the surface, it leaves a deep trail that doesn't disappear right away). Remove from heat and wait 30 seconds for it to cool slightly. Pour in the lightly beaten eggs a little at a time, stirring quickly until they're completely incorporated: there shouldn't be any visible yellow bits remaining, otherwise it will break apart during cooking. The eggs will cook slightly from the residual heat of the sauce. Add 50 grams of grated Parmesan and stir well until it's completely distributed throughout.
7. Take a rectangular baking dish (about 30 centimeters long by 20 centimeters wide) and lightly coat the bottom with oil or butter. Spread a thin, even layer of sauce on the bottom (about half a centimeter thick). On top arrange a layer of eggplant slices, positioning them so they touch each other, then distribute the lamb ragù evenly, then cover with a layer of sauce. Repeat the layers in the same order (eggplants, ragù, sauce) until you've used everything. Always finish with a layer of sauce that completely covers the surface: this prevents the moussaka from drying out during cooking.
8. Sprinkle the remaining Parmesan over the surface, distributing it evenly. Bake in an oven already preheated to 180°C: the moussaka is ready when the surface is golden uniformly all over and you smell a rich, inviting aroma coming from the oven (this means the heat has reached completely through to the center). If halfway through cooking the surface isn't yet golden, raise the temperature to 200°C for the final minutes. Remove from the oven and let it rest for 10 minutes before serving: this rest allows the flavors to settle properly and helps the moussaka hold together when you cut it (if you slice it right away it cracks and the pieces fall apart).